Rolex Datejust Complete Introduction

The Rolex Datejust series has been one of Rolex’s most iconic and classic timepieces since its debut in 1945. As the world’s first automatic, waterproof watch with a calendar display, it marks a milestone in horological history. After decades of evolution, the Datejust has seen a rich variety of styles, combining elegant design with practical functionality, and remains a timeless classic in the market. Additionally, due to its excellent value retention, it is one of the top choices for many collectors and newcomers to Rolex. This article will introduce the Datejust series from the following aspects:

History of the Datejust Series

The first Rolex Datejust watch was launched in 1945, made from 18K gold and paired with the five-link Jubilee bracelet, which at the time showcased an elegant and noble design. As seen in the image, the dial at the 3 o’clock position features a calendar window with red numbers, which was a groundbreaking innovation at the time. This model was also a commemorative piece released by Rolex to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the brand’s founding.

Establishment and Early Development

The Datejust watch debuted in 1945 as the world’s first automatic, waterproof, chronometer-certified watch with a calendar window at the 3 o’clock position. The first batch of Datejust watches all featured precious metal cases (gold) and a 36mm diameter, celebrating Rolex’s 40th anniversary. At the same time, Rolex specially developed the five-link “Jubilee” bracelet for the Datejust, becoming an iconic design element of the series. In 1953, Rolex added the famous date magnifying lens (Cyclops) to the Datejust, making the date display clearer and more prominent.

Expansion and Technological Innovations

In the mid-1950s, with the introduction of stainless steel and Rolesor (steel and gold), the material choices for the Datejust series became more diverse. Watches with the “Datejust” label began appearing in 1957. That same year, the 26mm Lady-Datejust was introduced (now updated to 28mm), marking the first time the Datejust series offered a women’s watch, encapsulating the original design in a smaller, sturdy size. In the 1960s and 1970s, the Datejust developed into several classic reference models, such as 1600 (smooth bezel), 1601 (fluted bezel), and 1603 (engine-turned bezel), becoming highly sought-after by collectors. With the introduction of the Cal. 3035 movement in the late 1970s, the Datejust gained the ability to adjust the date quickly, significantly improving user experience. In the late 1980s, Rolex upgraded the Datejust’s crystal from acrylic to scratch-resistant sapphire and, in the 1990s, replaced tritium with the safer and brighter LumiNova and later Super-LumiNova, enhancing durability and night-time readability.

Modern Evolution

In the 21st century, the Datejust continued to innovate to meet modern tastes. In 2009, Rolex introduced the 41mm Datejust II to cater to the contemporary preference for larger watch diameters. After being discontinued for a time, it reappeared in 2016 with an improved movement and better proportions as the Datejust 41, becoming one of the main sizes in the series. Today, the Datejust family has undergone several generations of innovation, with both the classic 36mm models and the modern 41mm models continuing to inherit the original design spirit, making it a timeless classic.

Functions and Design Features

The Rolex Datejust is considered classic because it combines practical functionality with elegant design. Below, we will introduce the core features of the Datejust, including its signature calendar window and magnifying lens design, diverse sizes and men’s and women’s models, as well as material and aesthetic details.

Calendar Window and Magnifying Lens

The biggest functional feature of the Datejust is the calendar display window at the 3 o’clock position on the dial. This feature pioneered the instant display of the date on a wristwatch when it was launched in 1945, allowing wearers to easily keep track of the current date. In 1953, Rolex further enhanced the calendar window by adding a small magnifying lens (Cyclops), magnifying the date number by 2.5 times. The addition of the lens made it very easy to read the date, even on smaller watches. Today, the Cyclops lens has become a classic Rolex design element, highly recognizable, and many other brands have adopted similar designs to enhance date readability.

Size Evolution and Men’s and Women’s Models

The Datejust series offers a variety of size options to meet the needs of different wearers. The current Datejust for men is available in two classic sizes: 41mm and 36mm, while the women’s Lady-Datejust typically comes in 28mm (with some models in 31mm). The 36mm is the traditional classic size, offering a modest and elegant fit, while the 41mm caters to modern preferences and offers a bolder look. For women, the 28mm Lady-Datejust encapsulates the classic Rolex design in a slender size, often paired with precious metals and diamond accents, exuding an elegant, jewelry-like vibe. The 31mm is an intermediate size, perfect for those who prefer a slightly larger diameter or for men with smaller wrists. Whether for men or women, the Datejust maintains a high degree of consistency in its appearance, with its classic dial layout and date magnifying window, ensuring all sizes of the Datejust have their unique elegance and recognizability.

Material and Aesthetic Design

In terms of materials, the Datejust offers a rich selection ranging from stainless steel to precious metals. The most common is the Oystersteel stainless steel model, as well as the Rolex classic Rolesor (steel combined with 18K yellow gold, white gold, or Everose gold). The Rolesor model adds a touch of luxury with precious metal accents (such as the bezel and middle links of the bracelet), and is one of the signature configurations of the Datejust. Additionally, there are full precious metal versions (such as full 18K gold or Everose gold), as well as high-end jewelry models with diamond bezels and dials to cater to different levels of luxury demands.

Bezel and Dial

The classic appearance of the modern Rolex Datejust: The left image shows a 41mm Datejust with an 18K white gold fluted bezel (commonly known as the “dog-tooth bezel”). The right image shows a 41mm Datejust with a smooth steel bezel, commonly referred to as the “smooth bezel.”

The Datejust bezel design is primarily divided into two categories: the classic fluted bezel (Fluted bezel), commonly known as the “dog-tooth bezel,” and the simple smooth polished bezel (Smooth bezel), commonly known as the “smooth bezel.” The fluted bezel is made of 18K gold and emits a unique play of light and shadow, making it an important element of the “classic Rolex look” for many people. The smooth bezel, made of 904L stainless steel, has high corrosion resistance and offers rounded, understated lines, providing more style options for the Datejust. Each bezel has its admirers: those who favor traditional classics tend to prefer the fluted bezel, while those who enjoy modern minimalism opt for the smooth bezel. In terms of dials, the Datejust offers a wide range of classic sunburst dial colors (black, white, silver, blue, etc.), while in recent years, it has introduced innovative pattern dials such as “brick pattern,” “palm leaf pattern,” and “flower pattern,” infusing new life into the classic series. These distinctive dials are often released in limited editions and are highly sought after by collectors. Additionally, the dials of women’s Datejust models often feature diamond hour markers or mother-of-pearl material, adding to their luxurious feel. Overall, the Datejust’s bezel and dial combinations are varied, catering to aesthetic tastes ranging from classic understatement to glamorous fashion.

Movement and Performance

All Datejust models belong to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual series, meaning they feature the robust Oyster case and Rolex’s in-house automatic movement. The terms “waterproof” and “automatic” are reflected in the “Oyster” and “Perpetual” parts of the Datejust name. The current (as of 2025) 41mm and 36mm Datejust for men feature Rolex’s advanced Cal. 3235 automatic movement, while the 28mm Lady-Datejust uses the Cal. 2236 automatic movement, all of which are officially certified chronometers (with accuracy of ±2 seconds per day). The new generation movement provides about 70 hours of power reserve and includes practical features such as the instant date-change function. All Datejust cases are of the classic Oyster design, with a screw-down crown and case back ensuring 100-meter water resistance. This means that whether worn daily or during outdoor activities, the Datejust offers reliable protection. In summary, beneath its elegant appearance, the Datejust is a durable, accurate, high-performance timepiece, embodying Rolex’s consistent manufacturing standards.

Investment and Value Retention Analysis

​According to the WatchCharts Rolex Datejust Market Index, Datejust, as a classic Rolex series, has shown stable value retention in the secondary market. Although the overall watch market has declined since its peak in 2022, Datejust’s popularity has remained relatively stable compared to sports models like the Submariner and Daytona, which have seen more dramatic price fluctuations. The price trend of Datejust has been relatively stable in recent years, making it a solid investment option for the long term. Below, we analyze the investment potential of Datejust from market conditions and appreciation potential:

Market Conditions and Price Trends

Since the global watch market experienced a price surge followed by a correction in 2022, many popular Rolex models still trade above their official retail prices, and Datejust is no exception. According to data from international watch trading platforms, Datejust is one of Rolex’s best-selling series, with the 41mm and 36mm sizes being the most popular. In the past two years, due to the overall economic environment, the secondary market price of Datejust briefly declined, but by 2024, the market has stabilized, with most models still trading at “above retail” prices. Particularly, the 41mm larger models and those with Rolesor configurations (stainless steel plus precious metals) tend to perform better price-wise due to higher demand. Furthermore, models that come with full original packaging (known as “box and papers”) generally fetch a higher price on the secondary market.

Appreciation Potential and Influencing Factors

Looking at long-term trends, Rolex adjusts the official prices every year, and the pricing of new Datejust models has steadily increased. For example, in 2019, the entry-level stainless steel Datejust 41 (model 126300, smooth bezel, Oyster Jubilee bracelet) had an official retail price of approximately HK$66,600, but by 2025, the price had risen to HK$71,000, reflecting a 25% increase over six years. The price hike from Rolex provides a strong foundation for the secondary market, and with inflation and other factors, owning a Rolex watch often outperforms savings in the long run. For a specific model, secondary market factors include size (41mm models generally fetch higher prices than 36mm), material configuration (Rolesor models, with a higher content of precious metals, usually have a higher price than full steel versions), and the rarity of the dial. For instance, Datejust models with special dials (such as the aforementioned palm leaf or flower pattern) are often highly sought after by collectors, which can drive their prices up. Additionally, the condition of the watch and its accessories are crucial price determinants. Watches that have been well-maintained or come with original certificates and boxes tend to command significantly higher prices than those in poorer condition.

Popular Model Comparisons

The Datejust series offers a wide range of models, and below we compare some of the more popular models to help you quickly understand their differences:

• Datejust 41 Model 126334 : 41mm diameter, stainless steel case with 18K white gold fluted bezel. The 126334 is a highly sought-after Datejust 41 classic model, commonly paired with the five-link Jubilee bracelet, fully showcasing Rolex’s traditional and elegant design. The white gold fluted bezel not only enhances the watch’s appearance but is also one of Rolex’s signature elements. Due to the precious metal bezel, the price and secondary market value of the 126334 are typically higher than the full steel versions, but it best represents the classic Datejust aesthetic, making it ideal for buyers who appreciate traditional Rolex design.
• Datejust 41 Model 126300 : 41mm diameter, stainless steel case with smooth polished stainless steel bezel. The 126300 is the base model of the Datejust 41 series, offering a more understated look compared to the 126334. It is typically paired with the classic three-link Oyster bracelet and has a more sporty, casual style. Since no precious metals are used, the 126300 is more affordable, making it an ideal choice for many Rolex newcomers. It retains all the core Datejust features (such as the Cyclops date magnifying lens and 100m water resistance), making it practical and versatile. For buyers who favor minimalist designs or have a limited budget, the 126300 provides excellent value for money.
• Lady-Datejust 28 Model 279174 : 28mm diameter, stainless steel case with 18K white gold fluted bezel. The 279174 is one of the popular Lady-Datejust models in recent years, utilizing the fluted bezel on the petite 28mm case. This model maintains Datejust’s signature look while being more delicate. It is typically paired with the five-link Jubilee bracelet, and some versions feature diamond hour markers or mother-of-pearl designs, making it particularly favored by female customers. As a starter Rolex watch for women, the 279174 combines elegant appearance with a stable, accurate movement. Its size is also very versatile, suitable for both everyday wear and special occasions. The secondary market value remains stable, making it a first-choice model for many women looking to purchase a Rolex.

Frequently Asked Questions for Beginners

Finally, we have compiled some common questions that beginners often have when purchasing a Rolex Datejust, and provided professional advice to help you make a more informed decision.

How to choose the right Datejust size for your wrist?

For men, the most common Datejust sizes are 36mm and 41mm. The difference between them is 5mm, and the visual impression will vary significantly when worn. Generally, those with smaller wrists who prefer classic elegance will opt for the 36mm, while those with larger wrists or who prefer a bolder look may find the 41mm more suitable. The best way is to visit a store and try on different sizes to feel which one fits best. If that’s not possible, you can look for comparison images online. Additionally, Rolex also offers smaller sizes (such as 31mm and 28mm) for women or those with smaller wrists, which retain the same classic design. If you feel 36mm is too large, you might consider the smaller sizes.

How to identify a genuine Datejust?

Identifying a genuine Rolex Datejust involves paying attention to the details and the purchasing channel:

• Dial Printing: Genuine Rolex dials feature precise, clear printing with no fuzzy edges. The date numbers are aligned centrally and are consistent in thickness. Fake dials often have blurred or rough printing, or slight misalignments in the date font.
• Cyclops Magnification: The Cyclops lens on genuine Datejust magnifies the date by 2.5 times, making it very clear and easy to read. Fake versions typically have inadequate magnification, making the date appear smaller or distorted.

• Laser Anti-Counterfeit Marking: Rolex watches made after 2000 typically have a laser-etched Rolex crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the sapphire crystal. The genuine laser crown is extremely fine and only visible under certain lighting conditions. Many counterfeit models lack this mark, or it is poorly etched.
• Movement and Calibration: Genuine Datejust watches have Rolex’s in-house automatic movement, with smooth second-hand motion (8 beats per second), and the winding is very quiet. When adjusting the date, genuine watches feature an instant jump function at midnight. Counterfeit models typically use cheap movements with noticeable lag in the second hand or loud winding sounds.

• Case Engraving and Serial Numbers: Genuine Rolex watches have highly detailed and clear engravings, with deep serial numbers inside the lugs. The case and bracelet will fit perfectly, and the polishing and brushing will be fine. Fake models often have shallow or poorly finished engravings, and the bracelet may feel loose or have visible gaps.
• Purchasing Channels and Authentication: For beginners, selecting a reliable purchasing channel is key to avoiding counterfeit watches. It is recommended to buy from authorized Rolex dealers, reputable watch agents, or trusted second-hand watch retailers. Avoid the temptation to purchase through unverified channels just for a lower price. If there are doubts about the authenticity of a watch in hand, it should be promptly sent to a Rolex authorized store or a professional watch technician for authentication. In any case, the saying “you get what you pay for” still holds true in the luxury watch market. Extremely low prices and non-standard channels often indicate high risks, so beginners should stay vigilant when purchasing watches.

Which band should you choose: Oyster or Jubilee?

The Datejust series offers two classic bracelet options: the Oyster bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet. Each has its own style and wearing experience:

• Oyster Bracelet: The Oyster bracelet features a classic three-link design with wide and sturdy links, commonly seen in Rolex’s sports models. Due to the wider links, the overall lines are clean and streamlined, giving it a solid and enduring appearance. When paired with the Oyster bracelet, the Datejust adopts a more sporty and casual style, emphasizing practicality and structural strength for everyday wear. Many choose the Oyster bracelet for its durability and timelessness, and it also gives the watch a slightly larger visual effect, making it ideal for those who prefer a masculine and robust style. It’s important to note that the Oyster bracelet has larger links, so it may feel a bit rigid on very thin wrists, but overall, modern Rolex Oyster bracelets are quite comfortable and well-fitted.
• Jubilee Bracelet: The Jubilee bracelet consists of five rows of smaller, tightly arranged links, specially developed for the launch of the Datejust in 1945. Compared to the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet features more delicate and compact links, which provide a soft and comfortable fit that closely follows the wrist’s curve, offering exceptional comfort and a shiny, luxurious feel. The Jubilee bracelet has an elegant and refined aura, perfectly matching the classic design style of the Datejust. For many traditional watch enthusiasts, it is the “authentic” pairing for the Datejust. However, it’s important to note that due to the large number of links and the relatively complex structure, over time, slight loosening may occur at the link joints (commonly known as bracelet stretching or creating gaps). Modern Rolex bracelets have been improved with solid links, increasing durability compared to older versions, but it’s normal for the Jubilee bracelet to show some stretch over years of use. With proper cleaning and maintenance, the bracelet remains highly durable; however, if the links or the entire bracelet need to be replaced in the future, the repair cost will be slightly higher than that of the simpler Oyster bracelet.

In terms of aesthetic pairing, generally speaking, the combination of a Smooth bezel + Oyster bracelet and Fluted bezel + Jubilee bracelet are the most classic and common choices, offering a harmonious look that embodies the traditional Rolex style. For instance, the full steel 126300 is often paired with the Oyster bracelet, while the two-tone 126334 with a white gold bezel is typically paired with the Jubilee bracelet. This combination has become a classic. However, this is not a strict rule, as modern Rolex also offers a variety of pairing options. If you want to highlight your personal style, you could try pairing the fluted bezel with the Oyster bracelet or the smooth bezel with the Jubilee bracelet. Different combinations will offer distinct visual effects: the former adds a touch of sporty appeal to elegance, while the latter injects a sense of vintage sophistication into a sporty look. It’s recommended that you try on different bracelet styles before purchasing to feel which combination is most comfortable and visually pleasing on your wrist. In any case, whether you choose the Oyster or Jubilee, both are representations of Rolex’s exquisite craftsmanship, and by selecting according to personal preference and lifestyle, you’re sure to find the perfect Datejust for yourself.

I hope this information helps you in gaining a comprehensive understanding of the Rolex Datejust series. Whether it’s the classic historical heritage, unique functional design, or steady market performance, the Datejust is undoubtedly a timepiece that combines elegance with practicality. If you are looking for a watch that is suitable for daily wear yet offers long-term value, the Datejust is definitely worth considering. During the purchasing process, comparing and seeking advice from professionals will help you choose the Datejust that is most suited to your preferences. Wishing you the best of luck in your journey to acquire your dream Rolex!