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Knowledge & History
Rolex Caliber 3255: A Perfect Combination of Technological Innovation and Market Acclaim
Aug
▲Cal. 3255 Technical Specifications
> Functions: Central hour, minute, and second hands; Quick-adjust instant-jump day calendar; Second hand stop function
> Balance wheel system: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring; High-performance Paraflex shock absorber
> Escapement: Paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escapement fork and escapement wheel
> Vibration frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
> Power reserve: 70 hours
> Certification: C.O.S.C. Swiss Observatory certification, Rolex Observatory precision timekeeping test
The 3255 Movement is a Breakthrough in Technical Innovation and Performance
Rolex is renowned worldwide for its unshakeable market position and exceptional watchmaking craftsmanship. The brand continuously pursues technological innovation and responds swiftly to market changes. The appointment of Rolex’s new president Jean-Frédéric Dufour in 2014 marked a new stage in the brand’s development. At BASEL 2015, Rolex unveiled the new Caliber 3255 movement, a milestone in the brand’s technological innovation, primarily used in the Rolex Day-Date series watches.
The Day-Date features a date and day display and is often referred to as the “President’s watch.” It holds 14 patents, with 90% of its components innovatively produced, including the new Chonergy escapement system. This showcases Rolex’s leading position in watchmaking technology. The movement’s accuracy reaches twice the Swiss Observatory certification standards, with a daily deviation of +2 to -2 seconds, significantly exceeding industry expectations at the time.
Enhanced Power Reserve and User Convenience
The introduction of the Caliber 3255 increased the power reserve from the previous 48 hours to 70 hours, achieved through an innovative design that reduces the inner wall of the mainspring barrel to increase its capacity. This design ensures the watch operates efficiently even when not worn, allowing users to maintain functionality over weekends without wearing it.
Market Response and Consumer Feedback
Since its launch, the Cal. 3255 movement has received widespread acclaim in the market. Consumers express high satisfaction with its exceptional accuracy and long-lasting power reserve. Rolex’s innovative designs and technological advancements have undoubtedly earned the brand greater market recognition.
Movement Accuracy and Durability
90% of the parts in the Caliber 3255 have been redesigned to enhance shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and power reserve. The application of a new balance wheel axis and screw for fine-tuning the balance wheel ensures stable operation of the watch in various environments. Additionally, the movement’s power reserve has increased from 48 hours to 70 hours, ensuring normal operation even when not worn over the weekend.
Analysis of Movement Components
Automatic Winding System
High-Performance Gear Train
The high-performance gear train consists of a series of gears that transmit power from the mainspring to the escapement system. Through different gear sizes and ratios, the gear train converts the vibrations of the escapement system into displays of seconds, minutes, and hours, presented by hands. In the previous Caliber 3155, the center wheel was the seconds wheel (fourth gear), while in the Caliber 3255, a newly designed gear train places both the minutes wheel and seconds wheel in the center wheel position (stacked vertically). This design not only saves space within the gear train but also improves the efficiency of power transmission from the mainspring. Furthermore, Rolex has developed its own high-performance lubricants, which not only extend the lifespan but also enhance stability. Notably, Rolex is the only watch manufacturer that independently develops and synthesizes lubricants.
High-Capacity Mainspring Barrel
To increase power, there are generally two methods: one is to enlarge the mainspring barrel or increase the number of barrels, which would increase the size of the movement; the other is to reduce the weight of components or improve the escapement system for better power efficiency. The Caliber 3255 adopts a dual approach: the newly designed mainspring barrel maintains the same size but features thinner walls, allowing for a longer mainspring and effectively extending power; on the other hand, improvements in the escapement system enable more efficient power utilization, achieving approximately 70 hours of power reserve.
Escapement Device
The new Chronergy escapement differs from the traditional Swiss lever escapement primarily in the shape of the escapement fork, which is inclined at the tail, enhancing the lever effect. The jewels on the escapement fork are thinner than before, effectively increasing the contact area with the escapement wheel for more stable timekeeping. Additionally, the new skeletonized escapement wheel, crafted using LiGA electroforming micro-manufacturing technology, significantly reduces component weight and increases power efficiency, similar to Grand Seiko’s use of MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) technology to skeletonize the escapement fork and axis, thereby reducing weight and extending running time. Furthermore, the escapement fork and escapement wheel are made from paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus, effectively resisting magnetism.
Panacrom Hairspring
The Cal. 3255 utilizes a Panacrom double-layer Breguet hairspring, made from a niobium-zirconium alloy, which offers excellent shock resistance and magnetic resistance. The balance wheel also uses a light balance design, employing four screws for fine adjustment. The axis of the balance wheel is reinforced against magnetism, and the balance bridge also features height-adjustable screws to ensure smooth operation over long-term use. Additionally, the gear train of the 3255 is entirely new, with a design that places both the minutes wheel and seconds wheel in the center wheel position (stacked vertically), saving space and improving power transmission efficiency. Coupled with specialized lubricants, this enhances power transmission and timing accuracy.
Our store’s : Day-Date series
