In the early 20th century, the UK rapidly rose to become the center of the global economy. In 1905, Hans Wilsdorf traveled from Switzerland to London to establish a watch company. At that time, the company’s products did not bear the name “Rolex”; instead, the case back was engraved with “W&D,” where W represented Wilsdorf and D represented his British partner, Dennison. Wilsdorf was confident in expanding into the British market and associated his watch business with the British royal family, laying a solid foundation for the brand’s future.
Brand Origin and Development
Entering the 1930s, Rolex faced a marketing bottleneck, as its high prices made it difficult for ordinary consumers to accept. To open up the market, Wilsdorf decided to launch a high-quality yet affordable watch, which became “Tudor.” The name of this new brand was derived from the splitting of Wilsdorf’s name, aiming to allow more people to enjoy high-quality Swiss-made watches.
Historical Symbols and Design
The Tudor watch logo has undergone several changes, from the earliest “small flower” to the “shield flower,” then to the “big flower,” and finally to the “shield.” These logos not only reflect the brand’s historical evolution but also showcase the diversity of its design philosophy. The original logo was a rose, symbolizing the Wars of the Roses in England, which later evolved into a shield, representing the brand’s resilience and elegance. This change also reflects the brand’s pursuit of quality.
Tudor Movements
Tudor watches originally used Rolex movements and cases, making it nearly indistinguishable from Rolex in terms of quality. Over time, Tudor gradually transitioned to using ETA’s high-grade TOP movements, which allowed it to maintain high quality while reducing production costs. Although many watch brands also use ETA movements, Tudor’s finishing process is considered among the best in the industry, with overall quality comparable to Rolex.
In 2015, Tudor began to introduce its first in-house movement. This high-performance movement is precise and reliable, offering an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Subsequently, new movements were developed for various watch models, with the “MT” designation representing “Manufacture TUDOR” (Tudor in-house manufacture).
Collectibility and Market Positioning
As a subsidiary brand of Rolex, Tudor watches have a unique position in the market, and their collectibility is steadily increasing. This is especially true for models that were used as military watches, which have higher collectible value due to their historical significance and rarity. Tudor watches are usually priced slightly higher than other brands using similar movements, symbolizing their status as a member of the Rolex family.
The collectible value of Tudor watches is not only reflected in their design and technology but also in their historical significance. Older Tudor watches feature logos and hand designs that hold greater collectible value. By opening the case back, one can find the production date stamp, which is the only way to determine the year of manufacture. These details make Tudor watches highly sought after in the collector community.
Trademark and Market Strategy
The Tudor brand is owned by Rolex and is positioned as a secondary brand. In the past, Tudor’s designs often mimicked Rolex’s style, but with changing market demands, Tudor has begun to introduce some unique models, such as the Mini-Sub. Over time, Tudor has broken from tradition and launched designs that are completely different from Rolex, making it more competitive in the market.
Conclusion
The relationship between Tudor and Rolex is deep and complex. As a secondary brand of Rolex, Tudor has unique characteristics in design, quality, and market positioning. Whether seeking affordability or collectible value, Tudor is a great choice, and as the brand develops, its market potential will become increasingly significant.