In the world of haute horlogerie, filled with complex craftsmanship, the thinness of a watch has always been a field where major brands compete. At the recently concluded Geneva Watch Days, the record for the “thinnest mechanical wristwatch” was once again broken.
Breaking the Geneva Ultra-Thin Mechanical Watch Record
The competition in design and technology within the watchmaking industry has always been fierce. In 2018, Piaget launched a watch just 2mm thick, capturing everyone’s attention. Subsequently, Bvlgari repeatedly broke records with watches measuring 1.8mm, 1.75mm, and 1.7mm. However, this year’s battle for thinness has seen new developments. Independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin from Russia showcased his latest creation, the ultra-thin 1.65mm “ThinKing” watch, successfully taking the throne.
The birth of this watch was inspired by a commission from a client last year, reminding Chaykin of a 19th-century ultra-thin pocket watch he encountered by chance 20 years ago, whose movement was equipped with a cylindrical escapement mechanism only 1mm thick, an astonishing feat even today.
The ThinKing watch measures 40mm in width and 1.65mm in thickness. Despite its impressive thin design, the weight of a typical mechanical watch makes it not particularly comfortable to wear. To address this, Konstantin Chaykin designed an external accessory called “PalanKing,” inspired by the ancient noble sedan chair “Palanquin,” providing additional protection while maintaining the watch’s ultra-thin profile. When the ThinKing is placed inside, its thickness increases to 5.4mm, still within the “ultra-thin” category, alleviating concerns about fragility due to excessive thinness.
Structure and Materials of the “ThinKing” Watch
The watch is primarily made of a special stainless steel with exceptional hardness, offering durability comparable to regular watches, without using the crystal glass commonly found in haute horlogerie. It features a patent-pending alligator leather strap, showcasing an extraordinary aesthetic pursuit. The movement is equipped with the K.23-0 movement developed by Konstantin Chaykin, consisting of 204 components and 51 jewels, and utilizes a manual winding design. The double balance design of the movement not only reduces thickness but also enhances stability. The winding method is unique; in the ThinKing form, the main spring shaft key must be inserted for manual winding, eliminating the common ratchet structure. In the PalanKing form, the watch becomes self-winding, with time setting and winding done via the crown, providing up to 32 hours of power.
Apart from its unique design, the ThinKing’s appearance features Konstantin Chaykin’s signature face theme, previously seen in designs such as animal heads, “Minions,” clowns, and Pumpkin Head Jack, with the latter used this time. The hour and minute displays form the eyes, the logo serves as the nose, and the brand name at the bottom presents an arched smile.
Overall, the design philosophy of the ThinKing is that even ultra-thin watches must be durable and practical, serving not only as an artwork but also as a timekeeping companion for the wearer. For Konstantin Chaykin, the initial task was not difficult; the challenge lay in combining elements of thinness, comfort, and aesthetics. The launch of ThinKing has garnered widespread attention, not only as a technical breakthrough but also offering a new wearing experience, with potential for further improvements and more versions in the future.